Western Hand Saw Sharpening & Restoration Services

Prices and descriptions of my standard hand saw sharpening and restoration services are listed below as a guideline for you to approximate what it will cost to have your saw sharpened and reconditioned. However, you may find that it is best to contact me before sending your saw out for service. By contacting me first, we can discuss what your personal needs are based upon the condition of your saw(s), your experience using hand saws, the type of woodworking that you do, the intended use of the saw(s), the types of woods that you most frequently use, and your expectations from the saw(s) in terms of the balance between the aggresiveness of the cut and the finish of the cut surface. By contacting me first, I'll make sure your saw is set up just right for you. After reviewing the prices and descriptions for the different services, click the button at the bottom of the page to contact me and get the process started.

Please note, the prices below do NOT include shipping the saw to me, OR the return shipping. After the agreed upon services have been completed, I'll provide an invoice for the total cost of the services and the return shipping. At that time, payment may be made by credit card (easiest & preferred method) or by check, prior to my shipping the saw back to you. If you would prefer to pay by check, you may pre-pay by including the check in the box with the saw if it is more convenient for you (though pre-payment is not required). Please include the return shipping cost in the total amount if pre-paying by check.

basic sharpening

Basic Hand Saw Sharpening Service  –  $35 per Saw

This service begins with jointing the toothline to ensure that it is straight or properly breasted, as appropriate. After the toothline is properly jointed, the teeth are filed to the appropriate rake and fleam angles, consistent with the intended use of the saw, experience of the sawyer, types of wood being sawn, and desired aggressiveness. The teeth are then set, if necessary, to provide an adequate kerf to prevent the saw blade from binding in the cut. After setting, the teeth are re-jointed, sharpened to their final edge, and the saw is tested and adjusted for a perfect cut. All of this work is done by hand (I do not use filing machines), with properly sized tapered saw files, to ensure the sweetest possible cutting action for your saw.


retoothing

Hand Saw Retoothing & Sharpening Service  –  $75 per Saw

If the teeth on your saw are severely mis-spaced with teeth of varying sizes all along the toothline, your saw will likely require retoothing. Alternatively, if the teeth on your saw are spaced just fine at say 12 points per inch, but you'd like the saw to have 16 points per inch, I can retooth your saw for you. Retoothing consists of filing away all of the existing teeth on the saw and then filing in new teeth at the desired spacing. This is done by hand, with a tapered saw file (I don't use retoothing machines). This service also includes the jointing, shaping, setting and sharpening work required to return the saw to service.


saw straightening

Straightening Bent/Kinked Saw Plate  –  $35 per Saw

Frequently, because a saw was dropped by a previous owner, or because a previous user kinked it during use (usually the result of trying to force a dull saw through a cut faster than it is capable of cutting), a saw may have bends or kinks in the blade. Bends in backsaws were often improperly fixed by a previous owner who just hammered the back lower onto the blade, giving the blade a tapered appearance. Using a hammer and anvil, these kinks can usually be removed. In the case of backsaws, the back is removed, the blade is straightened and the back is reinstalled. Severely kinked saws may not be able to be fully straightened without doing permanent damage to the saw blade, so it's best to check with me before sending kinked saws for service.


saw cleaning

Cleaning/De-rusting of Saw Blade  –  $50 per Saw

Rust on a saw blade makes for a dirty cut, a saw that sticks in the kerf, and teeth that just won't get as sharp as they can be. For a saw to perform at its best, the blade should be clean, free of rust, and smooth. My cleaning process starts with a soak in a mild acid (white vinegar) to loosen the corrosion. I follow this up by removing the loosened crud and rust with various grits of sandpaper, steel wool and a light oil. The toothline is given special attention to ensure that the teeth are clean and able to take a fine edge. After cleaning off the residual grime and oil, I finish up with a protective wax polish. I'm happy to clean your saw for you, but it's a simple job that you can easily do and save yourself the additional cost.


handle repair

Repair & Restore Damaged Saw Handle  –  $75 per Saw

Old saw handles are frequently found with broken horns or cracks in the cheeks from being dropped or from overtightening of the saw bolts. Cracked cheeks can prevent the saw from being held securely in the handle, making for a wobbly grip. Broken horns can be down right uncomfortable if they're broken in a way that interferes with your natural grip on the saw. Often, if the damage isn't too severe, it can be repaired. Cracks can be glued and horns can be repaired by scarfing on patches and shaping them to blend with the original handle. The original handle finish color can usually be closely matched to hide the repair as much as possible, or the entire handle can be refinished. Saw bolts can also be cleaned and polished upon request.


new handle

Make Replacement Saw Handle  –  $150 per Saw

If you have a saw with a handle that is beyond repair, or if you'd just like a special handle for your saw, I can make and fit a new handle to your saw. I can make a handle to match the original handle that came with the saw or I can give the saw a new look with a different style handle. Standard woods that are always available for replacement handles are walnut, cherry, maple and beech. If you have a special piece of wood you would like me to use for the handle, I can use that as well. The standard finish for new handles is linseed oil followed by an oil/varnish blend topcoat and a wax polish.